Our train arrived in Split at sunrise. We awoke in our cabin, got all our things together, and headed for the door.  The moment we stepped off the train we were attacked by what we have come to call “the vultures.”  These are not scavenging birds preying on the dead, but scavenging innkeepers preying on the traveler.  With our backpacks, we ran through the gauntlet of desperation dodging shouts of “room, bed, sobe” “very cheap…I give you deal…” and so on.  It was hard to shake them, especially during the off-season when they don’t have nearly as many people coming through town. Unfortunately for them, we did have accommodations.

Relishing in our freedom, from both the train car and our overbearing welcoming committee, we started walking towards the water.  It was breathtaking to see the sun coming up over the Adriatic Sea!   After ooohing and aaahing for a while we decided to find our hostel. 

We are a great team.  As we travel, we realize this more and more each day. We have become very efficient at many things, including finding accommodations.  Before we go to a town, I will go on www.hostelworld.com (a must for travelers) and scope out the sleeping situation. On the website there are ratings and reviews from people that have stayed at each hostel (you search by country and then city), as well as prices, pictures, a list of amenities, and directions. I find a good one for a good price, sometimes reserve it, and write down the directions. Then, when we get off whatever we took to the city (bus, train, ferry, or plane) I give Dave the directions and he gets us there.  So far it has been a recipe for success. 

At 7 am we arrived at our hostel and rang the buzzer.  Lucky for us, the owner was kind enough to let us settle in our room and crash.  A few hours later we were well rested and ready to see the town. Our tour digressed a tad when we spied an empty table in the popular seaside boulevard. On a terrace overlooking the Adriatic, we sipped coffee and observed the Croatians enjoying their sunny Sunday afternoon. Basking in the sun while people watching and drinking coffee was the perfect balance of relaxation and stimulation, but the streets of marble looked too inviting! We paid the waiter and were then free to discover the old port town!

A short detour back to the room to grab our cameras was all it took, and we were off.  After winding around the white-washed streets for a few hours, we made our way to Marjan Park to find a spot to watch the sun set over the water.  As we hiked, the bright orange ball cast it’s warm light, edging closer and closer to the horizon.  We finally found a perfect spot.  A little off the trail, up a few boulders, and through some brush and thorns, the trees parted.  It created the perfect frame for the sun to set in.  We scaled the rocks and Dave set up shop.   It was magnificent.  The colors reflecting off the crystal clear water composed a distorted image of the horizon.  Rocky islands in the distance jutted out of the water, only their silhouettes visible in front of dramatic hues of orange and pink.  As the sun lowered itself behind the rocky peaks, pinks and purples joined the party, creating a picture I hope we were able to capture.

Sunrises and sunsets are some of our fondest memories of Croatia. We spent a week in the country, and had many beautiful experiences.  This was the first of many.  

Our unexpected trip to Zagreb turned out to be a Saturday spent with the locals. Since our train to Spilt was not leaving until 10 that night, we had the whole day to explore the city.  

Our first stop: fuel.  Coffee and pastries were much-needed to start our day.  After a dose of caffeine and sugar we found our way into town by following the noise of a guitar and some drums.  We came upon a band playing on a stage set up in the main square. Next to it teenage girls were running around giving out "free hugs." Dave was embraced as we took it all in, and then we continued our way through town.  

Following old women wearing babushkas with 5 o'clock shadows will lead to one of two places: church or the market.  We lucked out with the latter and found ourselves surrounded by a colorful array of people and produce.  It is said that Croatians are very serious about their produce, and are they ever! Stalls upon stalls and row after row of fruit, vegetables, cheese, nuts, crafts, and more!  It was overwhelming!  We took a deep breath and dove into the smorgasbord!  We came out, hours later, with a 1/2-pound of walnuts, pickled mushrooms, and some clementines.  I kept on going, and some time later (I lose track when shopping is involved) I found Dave, 2 beers deep, in a gang of husbands all waiting for their women to finish shopping! After indulging in a few myself, nature called.  Following signs to the toilet I discovered a subterranean world of wine, meat, and kraut.  I pulled Dave away from his new friends and we set off to find our lunch.  

Thirty or so minutes later we were sitting in a park on a hill, eating a lunch that only a German would love.  Ham sandwiches with a side of sour kraut washed down with a litre of Croatia's finest vino.  

That was not the last of our wine drinking in Zagreb.  After taking our many bags back to the hostel, we went out to enjoy our evening before boarding the train. Once a year, for a week, Zagreb celebrates St Martin's day.  It is a day where "wine and Catholicism come together...[which] falls at the end of the wine-growing season." Apparently, St Martin liked his wine. This fact is celebrated with much enthusiasm. There are booths lining the boulevards of different vintners showcasing their years labor, and locals lining up to taste the grapey goodness.  We found a tent with people gathered around oak barrels sharing stories and bottles of wine.  We didn't hesitate to join in on the festivities!

Don't worry; we didn't miss our train to Split this time. But we had no trouble falling asleep on it, that's for sure!