Our unexpected trip to Zagreb turned out to be a Saturday spent with the locals. Since our train to Spilt was not leaving until 10 that night, we had the whole day to explore the city.
Our first stop: fuel. Coffee and pastries were much-needed to start our day. After a dose of caffeine and sugar we found our way into town by following the noise of a guitar and some drums. We came upon a band playing on a stage set up in the main square. Next to it teenage girls were running around giving out "free hugs." Dave was embraced as we took it all in, and then we continued our way through town.
Following old women wearing babushkas with 5 o'clock shadows will lead to one of two places: church or the market. We lucked out with the latter and found ourselves surrounded by a colorful array of people and produce. It is said that Croatians are very serious about their produce, and are they ever! Stalls upon stalls and row after row of fruit, vegetables, cheese, nuts, crafts, and more! It was overwhelming! We took a deep breath and dove into the smorgasbord! We came out, hours later, with a 1/2-pound of walnuts, pickled mushrooms, and some clementines. I kept on going, and some time later (I lose track when shopping is involved) I found Dave, 2 beers deep, in a gang of husbands all waiting for their women to finish shopping! After indulging in a few myself, nature called. Following signs to the toilet I discovered a subterranean world of wine, meat, and kraut. I pulled Dave away from his new friends and we set off to find our lunch.
Thirty or so minutes later we were sitting in a park on a hill, eating a lunch that only a German would love. Ham sandwiches with a side of sour kraut washed down with a litre of Croatia's finest vino.
That was not the last of our wine drinking in Zagreb. After taking our many bags back to the hostel, we went out to enjoy our evening before boarding the train. Once a year, for a week, Zagreb celebrates St Martin's day. It is a day where "wine and Catholicism come together...[which] falls at the end of the wine-growing season." Apparently, St Martin liked his wine. This fact is celebrated with much enthusiasm. There are booths lining the boulevards of different vintners showcasing their years labor, and locals lining up to taste the grapey goodness. We found a tent with people gathered around oak barrels sharing stories and bottles of wine. We didn't hesitate to join in on the festivities!
Don't worry; we didn't miss our train to Split this time. But we had no trouble falling asleep on it, that's for sure!
